For the past 13 years, a family has been rolling, preparing and serving mouth-wateringly fresh noodles inside a nondescript factory – but you better come early to eat here.

I took the 05:27 train from Okayama one cool morning, though by the time I got off at Kaminocho Station just 25 minutes later, the air was already thick and sultry, foretelling another typically sweltering August day in Japan. A short walk down the street led me to a small, industrial-looking

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